ByLela London,
Senior Contributor.
I am no longer reassured by full restaurants.
This is new for me. For years, a packed room felt like a kind of victory. From the outside, proof that the food was good, the staff sincere, and the atmosphere persuasive enough to pull me out of pyjamas and into my wallet. On the inside? A full restaurant suggested health. Momentum. Maybe, if not safety, then at least the promise of it.
Now I find myself scanning busy dining rooms with a less optimistic instinct. One that doesn’t ask ‘is this working?’ but ‘how long can this possibly last?’
