Mexican food has been a mainstay in American cuisine since the second half of the 1900s, with free tortilla chips and birria now available in pretty much every corner of the United States. Mexican immigrants translated their traditional foods into cookbooks, restaurants, taco trucks and supermarket staples in ways that serve as both a blueprint for economic success and a source of cultural pride.
But who gets to enjoy Mexican food these days? As U.S. Immigration and Customs Enforcement continues disproportionately targeting Latino communities, including Mexican Americans and Mexican nationals, is it fair for ICE and its supporters to dig into some mole con arroz and mulitas?
The question felt particularly relevant last week, when ICE officers enjoyed lunch at a family-run Mexican restaurant in Willmar, Minnesota, then returned shortly thereafter to detain three workers.
While the agents dined at El Tapatio earlier in the day, staff appeared “frightened,” according to a witness, but served them and showed hospitality anyway. Hours later, as the restaurant was closing, the same men showed up outside and took the employees into custody.
According to the Minnesota Star Tribune, bystanders who saw the arrests blew whistles at the agents as one person called out, “Would your mama be proud of you right now?”
