As restaurants change to reflect new tastes, local reactions have ranged from fascination to fury.
As restaurants change to reflect new tastes, local reactions have ranged from fascination to fury.
Lupita Ricardo, a tlacoyo and quesadilla cook with a family stand operating for over 40 years, works in front of the restaurant Maizajo.Credit...Luis Antonio Rojas for The New York Times
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By Priya Krishna
Priya Krishna spent four days reporting and eating in Mexico City, averaging about eight tacos a day.
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