Food critic comes under fire after suggesting health and safety rules ‘don’t really apply’ to elite restaurants

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ccording to a critic who has eaten at every three-star Michelin restaurant in the world, Gareth Ward, the star chef and owner of Ynyshir, on the southern edge of Eryri national park, is a groundbreaking visionary.

“He knows which rules to break and when,” Andy Hayler wrote. “He’s like Picasso; if you look at his early still lifes, they’re unbelievably perfect.”

Food safety officers at Ceredigion county council clearly do not agree. Ward’s two-Michelin-starred establishment was given a one-star hygiene rating in a recent inspection, which means it is operating below minimum legal standards.