T
he upper reaches of the Pir Panchal mountain range in the Lesser Himalayas is covered with fresh snow, forcing large-billed crows to fly downhill in search of food. One village they often flock to is Raiyar, a hamlet in the hillocks adjacent to Doodhpathri in the Budgam district of central Kashmir. This is around 43 kilometres from Srinagar, the capital of Jammu and Kashmir (J&K). Watching the crows perched on leafless apple and walnut trees, Rafiqa Jan, 38, complains that they keep cawing at a high pitch — considered a bad omen.
With its sprawling meadows, crystal clear streams, and evergreen pine trees, Doodhpathri has been an increasingly popular choice for both domestic and international tourists over the last few years. However, this year, it remains deserted and quiet. It is among the 48 destinations that closed for tourists after the terror attack in the Baisaran meadow in Pahalgam left 26 people dead on April 22 earlier this year.
This winter, Christmas festivities lift spirit of moribund Kashmir tourism
Jan and her husband, a labourer, live on the border of Doodhpathri. She has had a tiring day, scaling the nearby forests dotted with dense pine trees to collect wood for cooking.






