Few beauty rituals are as satisfying as a manicure. Especially one with a gleaming finish, its mirror-like quality unperturbed and chip-free. But the secret to that industrial-strength finish is trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide (TPO), a substance now coming under major scrutiny.

In September, the European Union reclassified TPO as a CMR 1B substance, “meaning potentially carcinogenic or toxic to reproduction”, explains Victoria Brownlie, the chief policy and sustainability officer at the British Beauty Council. The chemical reacts with LED or UV lamps to cure the polish. It also prevents the finish from yellowing. The ingredient is popular because it’s cheap, fast-acting and widely available.

Bio Sculpture Gemini nail polish in pink tourmaline, £15.50

A good gel should ideally soak off easily

Manicurist Danae Gooch