Vogue report finds fall in number of ‘curve’ models, while widespread use of weight-loss drugs credited with normalising thinness

Fashion insiders have expressed concern that efforts towards size inclusivity are being eroded, with experts saying the industry has “done a 360 turn” back to promoting thinness.

This week a report by Vogue Business found that out of the 9,038 looks presented across 198 shows in the womenswear collections earlier this month, 97.1% were shown on straight-size models who measured between a US size 0-4 (the equivalent of a UK 4-8). Only 0.9% of models were plus-size, also known as curve (UK 18+), while 2% were mid-size (UK 10-16).

In the Milan shows, just four out of 55 brands included a model who was not straight-size. Elektra Kotsoni, the deputy editorial director of Vogue Business, said it was the lowest proportion since her team started compiling the biannual report two and half years ago. She describes the outlook as “horrible”.

Anna Shillinglaw, the founder of the model agency Milk Management, says she isn’t surprised. “Previously, the body positivity movement was growing with curve models doing the same shows and shoots as straight-sized models. But recently there has been a massive decline. The industry has literally done a 360 turn.”