Jason Cohen tells PostMag about his 20-year journey from exchange student to researcher in the world of Chinese tea

I’ve been tasting tea for almost 20 years. Most of my tastings are analytical. I’m learning something about the tea, the pairing of wares, the brewing method. I’m in a frame of mind to judge and compare each brew to my past experiences, to place the tea into a context for future recall and understanding.

I first travelled to Kunming, in Yunnan province, in 2007 (to study politics), with no local contacts or Mandarin skills and only a passing interest in tea. At the time, the Chinese were seeking products with a local provenance and history, and Puer tea captured that desire. I was taken by the rustic authenticity of Sheng Puer, the romantic notion of aged tea and the idea of rediscovering an ancient cultural treasure.

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