The American dream has never looked more seductive, with long and loose summer wardrobes and beachy jewellery

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ith the death of Giorgio Armani, Ralph Lauren became the world’s oldest major working fashion designer. The spotlight arrives with great timing for an 85-year-old on a hot streak. His brand is in better health than it has been for decades, with shares up 35% in 2025 and annual sales figures showing an 8% growth to $7.1bn (£1.25bn).

On the first night of New York fashion week, Lauren hosted the curtain-raiser for a month of catwalks with a show in his Madison Avenue design studio. Oprah Winfrey and Gayle King chatted to Lauren’s family; Usher smiled broadly behind sunglasses, lounging on a plushly cushioned front row. Champagne was served on silver trays under twinkling chandeliers. In the fractious climate, with the US reeling from the shooting of the far-right activist Charlie Kirk, Ralph Lauren’s affable, charming vision of the American dream has never looked more seductive.

Button-down shirts in parachute silk were worn open over swimwear, their sleeves rolled up. There was a crisp sundress in a cheerful tomato red, and a cricket sweater with slouchy trousers. Long dresses with delicate spaghetti straps dipped low at the back, worn with flat sandals and seashell jewellery. Imagine the wardrobe of a glossy Netflix lifestyle drama set in an impossibly swanky east coast beach house, and you get the picture.