My relationship with Penang started when I was small: my aunt and uncle lived here and we would take a ferry to cross from the west side of the mainland to Penang Island, where George Town, the state’s capital, is. The ferry is hot and humid with lots of cars, motorcycles and traders selling snacks. One of my favourite memories is eating a rose syrup ice lolly on the way there.
Nasi campur with turmeric-fried chicken, sambal tofu, water spinach and okra at Kedai Makan Lidiana © Oh Chin Eng
I really started exploring Penang when I moved from Kuala Lumpur, where I grew up, to do my pre-law studies in a neighbouring state. We visited Penang every two weeks – trips that always started with some really nice food, then dancing or karaoke. Even at 3am you can find something to eat or drink here.
After Malaysia began to be colonised at the end of the 18th century, the British brought migrants from China, India and Sri Lanka. Penang is one of the states in Malaysia where the three main races – Malays, Chinese and Indians – live harmoniously. Of course, I am not naive to the fact that there are still challenges and differences, but one thing they all agree on is that Penang does each of their cuisines best. I’ve seen Chinese cafés that have Indian traders selling roti and Malays selling nasi campur (a mixed rice dish). You’ll feel every part of Malaysia, all in the same space.
