This article is part of FT Globetrotter’s new guide to Los Angeles

You could live in Los Angeles your whole life and never know Altadena existed. It felt like a secret tucked into the foothills, never obvious but always magnetic. Its name, a fusion of “alta” for high and “dena” from Pasadena, felt fitting — a place both geographically and spiritually just out of reach.

Everyone thinks they’ve figured out LA: soulless, sprawling, surface deep. But Altadena has always felt like the rebuttal: deeply rooted, defiantly unpolished and communal. Perched on the north-eastern edge of LA at the entrance to the gaping Eaton Canyon, Altadena is an eight-square-mile neighbourhood of low-rise homes that’s a bit tilted, sitting partly at an angle to Pasadena’s grid below. Here, the natural and built environments have always been in a magical yet precarious conversation — trails begin where residential streets end, century-old oaks shade sidewalks, and coyotes slip through backyards at dawn. It is delightfully strange, and unincorporated, by design — its approximately 43,000 residents decided to not establish it as a city or town. This protects the area’s independent spirit, but also means that neighbours have always had to fill in the gaps.