Louche retro tailoring and unusual fusions revealed in collection excelling in premium version of everyday items
When fashion insiders received notice on Tuesday afternoon that Pharrell Williams’s Louis Vuitton show at Paris fashion week would be rescheduled to 9pm, there were collective sighs of annoyance.
But all was forgiven when they arrived at the space behind the Pompidou Centre to be told that Beyoncé and Jay-Z would be attending. The star and her husband, and nephew Julez Smith, joined a starry front row, which included Omar Sy, Steve McQueen, PinkPantheress, Spike Lee, Emile Smith Rowe and Victor Wembanyama.
Even without a megastar, the show was worth the wait. Williams took over as creative director of menswear in June 2023 and his spring-summer 2026 collection was his best yet – with louche retro tailoring and unusual combinations such as cargo pants and a shrunken sweater.
The collection excelled when performing one of luxury’s current favourite tricks – making premium versions of everyday items. Here, that included a striped polo shirt, a boxy work shirt and chinos. This look, worn with a ribbed vest, is likely to be copied by those who like fashion but lack Louis Vuitton budgets.
