"People want regime change," said Mariam, a pensioner, as she collapsed into the back of a taxi with her husband.

The couple had just dragged their heavy suitcases across a bridge over the fast-flowing Aras River that marks Iran's remote northern border with the small nation of Armenia, in the southern Caucasus region.

"I've walked a long way and I'm tired. The mood in Iran is not so good, but not so bad either. Of course, people are worried, but life continues. Supermarkets, shops, banks all work.

She said that Israel and the US wanted "regime change... but I don't know if they'll succeed, or whether the religious fanatics (in Tehran) will hold their ground. We will see."

The border point offers a small window into Iran itself, at a time when the internet there is disrupted, and most foreign journalists are banned.