On board the Cold War-style sealed train from Moscow to Kaliningrad

KALININGRAD: As the Moscow-Kaliningrad train approached Lithuania, the car attendant beckoned to passengers in Russian: “I’m closing the entire carriage, the toilets are out of action.” The 19-hour, 1,000-kilometer (650-mile) journey is the only land route between mainland Russia and its coastal exclave of Kaliningrad, wedged on the Baltic Sea between EU and NATO members Poland and Lithuania. In echoes of the Cold War, passengers on the “Yantar,” the Russian word for amber, are locked inside for the three hours it spends traversing Lithuania.

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