T
hessaloniki is a city accustomed to reinventing itself. Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman occupations have left their mark, while pockets of its heart were rebuilt after a 1978 earthquake. Today, Thessaloniki has shifted from industrial port to upbeat, uber-compact weekend destination thanks to a head-spinning tally of bars and restaurants in its city centre, fringed by the Aegean. It’s made for wandering too — it’s almost impossible to get lost in the grid-like streets, many of which wind down to the sea. Little wonder that the city’s vibe usually channels chalara, the Greek ethos of relaxation. Visit in autumn, when it’s still sunny but days are cooler.
What to do
● The chubby White Tower is a 15th-century landmark on Thessaloniki’s waterfront. Inside its circular walls are interactive exhibitions over seven floors telling the story of the city, or skip the history lesson and scamper dizzying staircases to reach the rooftop and a 360-degree view — go early, before mist swallows Mount Olympus on the horizon (£3; lpth.gr).
● Thessaloniki has a genuinely multicultural food scene. Peel away delicious layers of Turkish, French and Jewish culinary influence by joining the food expert Smaragda Makri on her walking tour of the city. Over two hours you’ll thread through backstreets to visit independent food sellers — such as the third-generation jam-makers Papageorgiou, to try sticky rose petals in syrup — as well as the sprawling Modiano and Kapani markets. This is all topped up with lively chat and koulouri, Thessaloniki’s take on the pretzel, or bougatsa, a custard pie encased in honey-glazed filo pastry (£30; eatandwalk.gr).