I love this gossamer-thin pastry for its lightness and crunch, not least because it can be used for both sweets and savouries. Once, on a trip to Athens, I learned how to make filo from scratch: it needs to be rolled very, very thin, so, unless you are skilled with a rolling pin, it’s hard and time-consuming. Luckily there are good ready-made varieties out there (if you’re using the frozen variety, make sure it’s fully defrosted). And always keep the pastry you are not working with under a damp cloth, because it dries out very quickly and will probably crack.Cheese and spring onion pie (pictured top)This boasts four varieties of cheese and a ruffly top of crisp, golden filo that requires no complicated technique.Prep 15 min
Cook 1 hr, plus cooling
Serves 6300g feta, crumbled250g firm ricotta, crumbled200g halloumi, grated150g gruyere or a sharp cheddar, grated 150ml single cream
3 eggs
25g chives, finely chopped25g dill, finely chopped25g flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped1 large bunch spring onions (8-10), trimmed and finely slicedFinely grated zest of 1 unwaxed lemonNutmeg
