Aug 28, 2026 – 5.00amFor centuries, nostalgia was classified as a serious illness, but try telling that to a Victorian restaurateur. The legacy of Melbourne’s great European restaurants of Tsindos, Society, The Latin and Mietta’s is leaned on today in Gimlet, Grill Americano, Florentino, Maison Bâtard – and now Roma, which opened in the shadows of 120 Collins Street in May.It’s restaurateur Con Christopoulos’ way of bringing back what he calls the glory days of Melbourne dining. “The traditions of service were celebrated then, and old-school values were part of the comfort of dining,” he says. “We want to bring that back to the city.”Subscribe to gift this articleGift 5 articles to anyone you choose each month when you subscribe.Subscribe nowAlready a subscriber? Jill DupleixFood writerJill Dupleix is AFR Magazine's culinary editor.Fetching latest articles
Melbourne relives its glorious past with comfort (and discomfort) food
The food is fine, but it’s the warm hug of nostalgia that will keep you coming back to Roma in Collins Street.
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