Aug 20, 2026 – 5.00amWho would have thought it? After a raging controversy surrounding René Redzepi, the chef-owner of the world’s most awarded restaurant, here I am: seated at Noma’s reopening night in Copenhagen.A team of 50-odd employees is making its debut menu of 22 fantastical courses a reality. As servers duck pumpkin vines and tomato plants dangling from the dining room ceiling, a chorus of line chefs in the open kitchen hollers “Yes!” back to new executive head chef Pablo Sato as he calls out orders.Subscribe to gift this articleGift 5 articles to anyone you choose each month when you subscribe.Subscribe nowAlready a subscriber? Kate HennessyContributorKate Hennessy is a Walkley Award-winning arts and travel journalist. Follow her on Instagram @katehennessywriterFetching latest articles