When people come together to celebrate Onam, the vibrant harvest festival that begins on July 16 this year, the visual palette is defined by bright yellow and red floral pookkalams (floral rangoli), lush green banana leaves, and pristine off-white and gold Kasavu. Traditionally, this handloom is known for its pristine off-white or cream body bordered by golden threads. But over the past few years, independent designers and brands have been lending a contemporary and artistic touch to the celebrated handloom.Artists add a creative touch to the traditional Kasavu saree.For many, the objective is not to change the essence of Kasavu but to present it in a way that resonates with a new generation that values individuality, comfort, and cultural pride equally.“Today’s younger consumer wants fashion that feels both rooted and relevant. The beauty of the Kasavu saree lies in its timeless elegance, and brands are re-imagining it through contemporary colour accents, modern blouse pairings, innovative motifs, lighter fabrics, and versatile silhouettes that fit seamlessly into today’s lifestyle,” says Vinay Chatlani, Co-founder and CEO of ethnic wear brand Soch.Traditionalists may argue that Kasavu’s simplicity is what makes it beautiful. But brands are trying to ensure they’re careful not to lose the handloom’s essence while catering to consumers seeking versions that feel more personal and contemporary.“We look at the ivory and gold as the main story and treat the artistic details almost like little additions to it. It could be an illustration, a small pop of colour, a hand-painted element, an unusual motif or an interesting border,” says Sujata Biswas of Suta, which has a range of Kasavu sarees priced between ₹2,500-22,500 depending on the fabric, craftsmanship and detailing. Taniya Biswas, the saree brand’s co-founder, adds, “It’s not really about choosing the new over the classic. People want something that feels fresh each Onam, while still feeling connected to what makes a Kasavu a Kasavu.”Customised painting on KasavuAcross India and in Kerala itself, artists are not just using their imagination, but also catering to customisation requests from consumers to paint on Kasavu sarees.Thrissur-based Dr Laji Sajith, a dentist-turned-entrepreneur says there’s “high demand” for handpainted Kasavu sarees during the Onam season. She takes 2-3 days to handpaint a single saree with floral motifs, using acrylic paints for cotton and acramine paint for silk. “These designs are very popular among both the young and the old alike,” says Dr Sajid, who depends on word-of-mouth and social media, to reach customers.There’s also Vinaya Nelson, an architect from Kochi, whose passion for painting led her to build her brand, The Ame Stories. “Onam is a huge celebration in Kerala and among Keralites. Everyone waits for this season to wear the best of their Kasavu sarees. The idea behind handpainting flowers and foliage on these sarees is to offer something unique.” She sources pure handloom from Kuthampully, a handloom weaving village, to ensure the integrity of the authentic weave while empowering local artisan families.Not just an ‘Onam saree’Kasavu is slowly moving beyond being seen as just an “Onam saree”, note the Suta co-founders.“Earlier, the plain ivory-and-gold Kasavu had such a strong association with Onam that many younger women would wear it for the festival and then save it for their next special occasion. Artistic details are changing that perception. When you add illustrations, interesting borders, colour or experiment with the blouse, the same saree can feel completely different. You can wear it with a statement blouse for Onam, pair it with a shirt for dinner, or style it differently for another celebration,” they say.How to maintain a hand-painted Kasavu saree?1. It is better to dry clean to preserve the paint2. Gentle hand wash with cold water and a mild detergent, only if necessary. Don’t scrub hard.3. Do not soak the saree for more than 5–10 minutes.4. Don’t twist the saree5. Always dry in the shade, not under direct sunlight6. Avoid placing hot iron directly onto the paint.
Handpainted and appliqued: For Onam, the traditional Kasavu saree gets a contemporary, artistic touch
Onam: From pallus depicting the traditional motifs from Kerala to handpainted drapes, artists are turning the off-white drape into a canvas for creativity.








