Everyone loves Rioja. And if they don’t, they should. They’re such drinker-friendly wines, made with love and care in – largely – immaculately run, family-owned wineries, and only ever released when judged to be ready to crack open and knock back.

They’re also superb value compared with Bordeaux ’n’ Burgundy. I mean, when did you last buy a 2006 claret of any standing for less than 25 quid? Well, we’ve a glorious 2006 Rioja here for just £23.50.

I was joined in the garden in choosing my selection from Mr Wheeler by the ever-gasping Mrs Ray and her sister, Felicity, who professed not to be thirsty, but she might manage a drop if a drop was going. Well, they’re peas in a pod these two and, despite their focus drifting somewhat on occasion – gosh they can chat! – I couldn’t open the bottles fast enough.

2020 Terroir de Zinio, Tempranillo Reserva (1) is brand new to Mr Wheeler’s list although they’ve worked with Zinio Bodegas – a highly regarded, 200-strong growers’ cooperative in the heart of Rioja Alta – for more than 20 years. 100 per cent Tempranillo, with two weeks’ skin contact maceration, malolactic fermentation and 18 months in French and American oak, it’s robust and spicy with plenty of rustic dark fruit with herbs and, hmmm, we couldn’t decide whether it was coffee or chocolate on the finish. £21.50 down from £22.95.