Catsu’s rendition of tonkatsu (Park Chan-yong)
Catsu, a restaurant in the Sinsu neighborhood of Seoul’s Mapo District, is a difficult place to visit in several regards.To begin with, there’s the location, which isn’t exactly subway-adjacent. The closest stop is Gwangheungchang Station on Line 6 of the Seoul Subway, and Naver Maps calculates it as a 10-minute walk if you stick to main roads.The operating hours are also “fluid.” Recently, the restaurant has only been open during lunchtime hours because the chef’s dog has been sick. Even then, you should check the eatery’s Instagram page before making the trek.In terms of size, it’s pretty tiny: seven seats in all. Yet on Monday, Nov. 28, Catsu had a line of people waiting for seats even after lunchtime had passed.There are a few reasons for this. Most basically, the food is delicious. Like a top-flight soccer team, Catsu’s tonkatsu (fried pork cutlet) has no weak links. The sirloin and tenderloin are exquisitely fried, bringing out the juiciness of the meat without any gamey flavor.The fermented soybean soup — doenjangguk — served on the side has enough solid ingredients that it could be sold separately as a meal. The cabbage is sliced finely like chives, the rice scooped fresh from the cooker each time.The welcome is friendly enough, even if the staff seem a bit shy. The restaurant is only open at lunchtime, and you should check social media before you go. You’ll have to stand in line, but that’s all right — the flavor is worth it.
