We may be experiencing the longest heatwave in living memory but in the fashion world, thoughts have already turned to the autumn collections.Last week we learned that Marks & Spencer will hold its first ever catwalk show at London Fashion Week in September, and yesterday it was the turn of John Lewis – that other high street institution – to unveil its vision for the future under the brand new directorship of Jacqui Markham.Markham was previously at Whistles and before that design director at Asos and Topshop during the golden years – she was responsible for designing the legendary Kate Moss collections. So a lot of hope is riding on her ability to draw in women of all ages – not just to buy the Ascot fascinator, the useful waterproof and the reliable well–priced cardigan, but their wardrobe building blocks.If M&S has successfully laid to rest its association with knickers, bras and swimsuits, to become a first–stop destination for clothes with just the right pitch of fashion at just the right price point, John Lewis has yet to cement its spot in women's psyche.The choice of labels it offers is second to none – this autumn, it's adding a first time collaboration with British brand Rixo, while Amanda Wakeley's collection returns for a second season – but it's fair to say its own–label fashion has not punched through.Markham is aware of this and when we meet reminds me that she's been in the job for only two months so her input amounts to 'tweaks' and fine tuning.She's also conscious that she's now the woman in the hot seat. Does she feel the pressure of M&S's success snapping at her heels? Markham laughs: 'I was at Topshop with Maddy [Evans, now M&S's director of womenswear] under Jane Shepherdson. They are doing good things.' Shirt, £205, Maxmara; skirt, £295, Amanda Wakeley; bag, £149, John Lewis; Shoes, £99.99, Mango Jacket, £249, top, £59, and jeans, £75, And/or; bag, £145, John Lewis; boots, £350, Reiss John Lewis leopard print shoes, £105Markham's priority is taking the John Lewis in–house offering up a notch: 'I want more polish across the board. Everything needs to feel feminine, flattering. I don't want sloppy and oversize.'Is there anything from previous collections she would ban? 'Those boxy jumpers. We were guilty of everything being a bit swingy.'She picks a new collection cashmere sweater with a funnel neck that is the perfect height and just the right hip–grazing length and loose–but–not–wide–fit in a warm taupe, which I would buy like a shot. At £169, it's not Uniqlo cheap, but the quality and shape are on a par with Me+Em, where it would cost double. The brushed cashmere is excellent, and notably the colours are spot–on. For autumn John Lewis is offering 69 cashmere styles from just over £60.Markham's personal passion is tailoring and her chosen piece from the new collection, if forced to pick, is the bitter chocolate trench coat. It is good–looking, with all the necessary details. It's also £329. Markham makes no apologies for this.'The aim is to raise our credentials. Premium is our mantra.'That might scare some of the women who trust in John Lewis's 'never knowingly undersold' promise and who already worry the high street is becoming unaffordable. 'Our customers trust us for the fridge, the television,' says Markham. 'They trust us to be the arbiters of quality and taste in all other areas when they're making an investment.' Waisted Blazer, £129, Jumper, £45, Barrel Jeans, £59, Suede Sling Crossbody Bag, £119, By Alona Lolita Braided Earrings, £110 John Lewis Trench Coat, £329, Stripe Shirt, £99, Japanese Denim Jeans, £149Styled by Markham, the range feels more relevant and polished, but there's a way to go. A herringbone tweed double–breasted blazer is a reasonable £129, but the proportions are slightly mean. A £99 cotton bomber jacket is nicely finished, but looks more spring than autumn.There's a men's–style crisp cotton striped shirt and I'd be interested in that, but at £99, I might head to label of the moment With Nothing Underneath, where you can get the premium boyfriend shirt for £4 less. There's nothing much new or standout to quicken the pulse and some of it feels like we've seen it many times before. They are yet to find that bright middle ground between 'boring' and 'trying too hard' – clothes that are new and fresh yet still classic and collectable.What does show promise are the accessories – including a pair of soft square–toed pumps in leopard print pony skin (£105). There are some good boots and a decent two–tone tote. Above all there is the eminently capable Markham, raring to do more than curate what's already there. It won't be until next year that we see her vision put into practice and then... prepare to be surprised and delighted.