July 8, 2026 — 5:00amAs the bells ring through the square, dozens of young, smiling families spill out of a church. It’s dusk and the tropical dewiness in the air is thick.I’m looking at one of the oldest churches in the Philippines, the Cebu Metropolitan Cathedral, and I can’t help but feel captivated, the stained-glass windows drawing me closer.A view of Cebu from the air.Cloe ReadI think back to how – less than 12 hours ago – a part of me had been worried. I had wondered if the pink sunset greeting us as we landed in the city of Cebu was deceiving. We’d all seen recent footage of how the Philippines had been hit by destructive weather. How would that affect my stay?Cebu is the oldest city in the Philippines, and as you walk through it, you can’t help but feel privileged to be a small part of it, even for a short time.We visit the Magellan Marker, and the Lapu-Lapu Monument a few blocks away, as part of our walking tour. Against a backdrop of a dark cloud, the statue of Portuguese explorer Ferdinand Magellan towers above us, alongside the native leader Lapu-Lapu, who defeated Spanish soldiers in the 1521 Battle of Mactan.Sign up for the Traveller Deals newsletterGet exclusive travel deals delivered straight to your inbox. Sign up now.As we walk, our phones light up with ominous weather warnings; however, our guide tells us not to worry.We move through the bustling city to the Basilica del Santo Nino. When travelling, I try to visit places of worship to gain a greater understanding. Each time though, I grapple with the overwhelming sense I’m intruding on the most intimate parts of people’s lives. But warm smiles from a group of women welcomes me in.Such is the nature of many Filipino people. Just weeks after Typhoon Kalmaegi devastated Cebu, in November 2025, killing and injuring hundreds, there is a sense of connection, that things will recover.The interior of Basilica del Santo Nino.