British berries have a secret; we tend to reach for them in crumbles, fools and jammy things, but their real superpower is their tartness – it’s the key to their versatility. Think of them less as fruit and more as a condiment: something to cut through richness and balance a dish, in much the same way that a good vinegar might. I’ve long had a love affair with British berries – childhood summers spent picking blackberries from the hedgerows for my grandmother’s apple and blackberry pie started it all – but over the years I’ve become increasingly reluctant to confine them just to dessert. Let these be your permission to do the same.Spicy fish sando with gooseberry ketchupPrep 20 minCook 40 min Serves 2For the fishA knob of butter
1 tbsp olive oil
3 tbsp plain flour
¼ tsp cayenne, or to taste20 grinds of black pepper
¼ tsp fine sea salt2 plaice fillets (or white fish of your choice), skinned and cut in half lengthwaysFor the gooseberry ketchup250g gooseberries (fresh or frozen), topped and tailed if required1 small banana shallot (approx 50g), peeled and chopped into 5-6 chunks1 small garlic clove, peeled and grated2 tbsp chardonnay vinegar, or white wine vinegar2 tbsp caster sugar
