For decades, you’d have been laughed out of any bar or wine shop for suggesting the English could beat the French at their own game with sparkling wine – and for good reason.Early English vino tended to be on the weedy side: thin and astringent, made with obscure Germanic grapes and pumped full of sugar in a desperate bid to balance eye-watering acidity.Not any more, though. English sparkling is now not just rivalling Champagne; in some cases, it’s outclassing it.There are sparkling wines made this side of the Channel, using the same grapes as Champagne and the same traditional method, where the bubbles are created in the individual bottles, not tanks.The result is brioche-scented, fine-bubbled fizz that even the most hardened Champagne obsessives might mistake for French. So it’s no wonder that sales have rocketed by around 200 per cent in six years, making viticulture the fastest-growing agricultural sector in the UK.Waitrose sales of English fizz have jumped 15 per cent, while Ocado says searches for it have doubled since last year. Ocado’s Vanessa Pearson is unequivocal: ‘It’s time to see English sparkling not as an alternative, but as a first choice.’ Hear, hear.If proof were needed, the silverware is piling up. Last year, Nyetimber in West Sussex became the first ever non-Champagne producer to claim the International Wine Challenge’s Champion Sparkling trophy, ending a 34-year winning streak for Champagne. English producers now routinely beat Champagne in blind tastings judged by sommeliers and other experts.Kent’s Chapel Down took this a step further recently, having the genius idea – and sheer audacity – to take its bottles to the streets of Champagne under the alias ‘Chapelle en Bas’. They found that six out of ten French consumers tasting blind said they preferred the English sparkling. Très embarrassant. 'England may have come late to the world’s winemaking party but it has absolutely no intention of leaving early,' writes drinks expert Helena NicklinSo how did England manage this coup? Average temperatures in southern England have risen by two degrees since the 1970s, with acceleration in the past ten years.That difference, coupled with chalky landscapes that closely resemble those of the Champagne region, doubling down on Champagne-style wines using chardonnay, pinot noir and meunier grapes, and the early successes of Nyetimber, among others, has been enough for producers to invest in viticulture here – including two major Champagne houses, Taittinger and Pommery.But just like in France, traditional-method fizz doesn’t come cheap. Small estates, hand-harvested grapes, years of ageing and soaring vineyard costs all come at a price.The upside? The quality now rivals – and sometimes surpasses – some of the world’s finest sparkling wines.And English sparkling still represents remarkable value: many bottles would likely cost double if they carried the word Champagne on the label.England may have come late to the world’s winemaking party but it has absolutely no intention of leaving early. Here is my choice of the five best to try... and three to avoid.The Trouble With Dreams 2020 East Sussex, £50, swig.co.ukMade with chardonnay and pinot noir, this is a stunning fizz from a vintage delivering lemon peel, apple and biscuit with a chalky mineral streak.Squerryes Brut 2022Kent, £40.99, squerryes.co.ukMade from all three champagne grapes, this is a full and flavoursome, sophisticated fizz with complex notes of tangy red apple, peach and pastry with a touch of spice on the finish. Traditional-method fizz doesn’t come cheap. Small estates, hand-harvested grapes, years of ageing and soaring vineyard costs all come at a price. The upside? The quality now rivals – and sometimes surpasses – some of the world’s finest sparkling winesDancing DuchessKent, £42, dancingduchess.comThis elegant, yet playful sparkling rosé from a new boutique producer is made with 100 per cent meunier, something rarely seen here or in France, where pinot or chardonnay take centre stage. Think pale, dry and crisp, with bright red fruit and a delicate, brioche toastiness.New Hall Wine Estate, Classic CuvéeEssex, £29.50, newhallwines.comFrom the most exciting new region for fine wine in the country, this classic fizz is all about fleshy, Golden Delicious apples and white peach with textural, brioche-like notes.Flint Vineyard Charmat RoséNorfolk, £20 (was £23), ocado.com‘Charmat’ is the method used to make prosecco, so expect an easy-drinking, fruity, dark pink fizz with strawberry bonbon flavours, a subtle nuttiness and a pretty whiff of rose.‘The Best’ English Sparkling Wine£22, morrisons.comThis is a decent example of a classic English fizz made by a famous producer (the back label says it’s made by Rolling Green Hills, under the same ownership as Nyetimber). In its old packaging, it was £10.99, so the huge price jump leaves a slightly bitter taste. Not worth the money now, to my mind.Asquith Gardens English Sparkling£15 (was £18.25), asda.comWhile well-priced and quintessentially English with its clean, lean feel and slightly herbaceous nose, the balance here feels a little off with very tart acidity and not enough fruit to round it out. Fine – but you get what you pay for.Denbies English Bacchus£21, ocado.comBefore the Champagne style took over, bacchus was hailed as the darling of English wine grapes – and this is a very good example.Having said that, with its wet fern and hedgerow notes bordering on soapy and a much lighter body than Champagne-style rivals, this wine is simply outclassed by the other type. Interesting, but save your pennies.