By ABC communities reporter Jeremy Story Carter and Cath McAloon

The town Robinvale on the south bank of the Murray River in western Victoria, according to the most recent Census, is home to 3740 people.

On one side of a stainless-steel bench, chips and fish swim against a tide of spluttering hot oil in full fluorescent visibility of a seemingly unremarkable takeaway shop.

On the other, obscured slightly from view, a chef assembles a laksa so deeply flavoured and bracingly spicy it would likely prompt a line out the door if it were in Melbourne.

Welcome to Robinvale, where things aren't always as they appear.