The Libertine      Address: 57 Clanbrassil Street Lower, Dublin 8, D08 HC79Telephone: N/ACuisine: Modern InternationalCost: €€The menu is so concise that I never find myself wondering whether this is a “gastropub” or not. Not that it would keep me awake at night, but my first instinct is that the menu staring back at me respects the fact that it is in a pub, has had a bit more schooling than the grilled-cheese-sandwich brigade and is unlikely to involve bought-in, premade portions. It follows the sharing format of snacks, plates and sides.The Libertine is what was once The Headline and then Thomas Keogh’s before that on Leonard’s Corner, Dublin 8, where the traffic has been clogged for the best part of half a century. The clientele has evolved over the years, with the neighbourhood transforming from locals to craft-beer-drinking hipsters during Geoff Carty and Máire Ní Mhaoile’s tenure, and now moving back again to a broader local mix. I turn up late on a Sunday afternoon, which probably explains the proliferation of families. It is walk-ins only; we are lucky to snag a table without having to queue.The ground floor has been opened up around an oak- and zinc-topped horseshoe bar, flanked by snugs, private booths, high and low tables and a lounge area, breaking the room into distinct zones.The menu caters for a broad cross-section, ranging from staples such as sausage and mustard, fried chicken, pork chop, and steak, to sourdough with whipped butter, ceviche and hispi cabbage. Run by the Kinsella family, industry stalwarts who have spent most of their time in Britain, the pricing sits very much in the middle market.The wine list is unusually good for a pub, a clear nod to the fact that there are people eating here who may just be interested in a Grüner Veltliner or Etna Rosso – although with just two wines in the €40-€50 range and nothing below, the list looks punchier than the food. Eight wines by the glass, ranging from €10 to €13.50, make things seem more accessible. There are of course draught beers with broad appeal and craft beers in cans, but the cocktail section is possibly the best place to have a rummage. A “Backroom” is the Libertine’s take on an Old Fashioned (€15), a beautifully made cocktail with beef-fat-washed whiskey sharpened with salt and pepper bitters. It arrives with a globule of beef tallow floating on top and a single large cube of perfectly clear ice. This is an important point for a cocktail. A pint of Guinness (€7) is perfectly poured.The Scotch egg (€12), cut in half to resemble bullseyes, has a jammy yolk that is almost liquid, just beginning to spill into the white. Wrapped in black pudding and finished with a crispy breadcrumb coating, the earthy savouriness is countered with a vinegared brown sauce, which has texture from walnuts and raisins.Ceviche is a dish that turns up frequently on small plates menus. Here opaque cubes of halibut (€15) sit in a fresh citrus and soy marinade. The fish is firm, indicating it has not been sitting around, with toasted corn kernels, slivers of red onion and slices of red chilli mixed in with it. The free-range fried chicken (€14) is well cooked, with a crispy coating, but it is doused in sauce. I would prefer if it was served alongside, to dip as needed, instead of losing the crunch.Dirty Auld Scotch Egg wrapped in black pudding at The Libertine. Photograph: Alan Betson A Weaver's Grace cocktail; crispy potatoes with parmesan and aioli; and a backroom cocktail. Photograph: Alan Betson Beer fried chicken at The Libertine. Photograph: Alan Betson Lee Meyler, the head chef, is a local who spent a number of years in Sydney honing his open-fire cooking. This shows in the bavette steak (€24), which is well seasoned and nicely charred on the outside, though it could perhaps have done with a shade less time, so it would be more rare than medium. The gravy is dull, lacking complexity and the salad leaves underneath are in an uninspired dressing. This is an easy fix.As the steak comes without chips, we order the crispy potatoes with parmesan and aioli (€6). These are less crisp than advertised, but taste good. The aioli could use a little more punch, though the generous grating of parmesan on top helps.For dessert, the Basque cheesecake (€9) is well made, but could be pushed just a little bit further for the signature burnt exterior, which is not just for colour but for the contrast it brings between the slightly bitter top and the rich interior.This is a promising start for a new bar/restaurant. It closed briefly for some further building work and has since reopened with an expanded menu and a few wrinkles ironed out.Dinner for two with two drinks was €102.The verdict: Serving tasty food without losing the essence of the barFood provenance: Sean Ring’s free-range chicken; Keenan and Kennedy’s free-range pork; Drumshanbo beef; Caterway vegetablesVegetarian options: Cabbage with pistachio pesto, cauliflower steak and cauliflower cheeseWheelchair access: Fully accessible, with an accessible toiletMusic: Soul, funk and modern electronic.Inside The Libertine. Photograph: Alan Betson Inside The Libertine. Photograph: Alan Betson Inside The Libertine. Photograph: Alan Betson The Libertine in Dublin 8. Photograph: Alan Betson