Marrakech is “warm and golden” in early October, its medina fragrant with cumin and charcoal even before the day has “properly begun”. It’s lovely to wander here, said Finn Beales in the Financial Times, letting the sights and sounds of the city “wash over” you – the souks, the hammams, the “rooftop mint teas”.But it’s also very touristy these days, and anyone looking for a “less-rehearsed” version of Morocco will want to get out into the mountains nearby. That’s what I did last autumn with five friends and the help of Unicorn Trails, a British operator that offers some of the world’s finest riding holidays. We spent six days in the saddle, heading into the High Atlas from Terres D’Amanar, and crossing passes above 3,000 metres to discover the valleys on the other side.Some of my friends had “minimal” riding experience – just four lessons before we arrived. But with riders carefully matched to horses to suit their skill level, everyone was fine. My own Arab-Berber stallion was “sure-footed” and “unhurried”, allowing me to take photographs from the saddle, and our two guides were superb local horsemen, always “watchful, measured” and“unfazed” by unexpected events.
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