In skincare, acids are equivalent to tailoring: a perfect fit made for the right measurements, ruinously ill-matched when badly fitted. They broadly fall into two families: fruit, milk or sugarcane acids that refine the skin’s surface (AHAs); and BHAs, oil-soluble exfoliants that work to curb congestion, blackheads and excess sebum. Too many people simply reach for the strongest bottle on the shelf, but the trick lies in knowing which acid solves which problem and when. Healthy skin sits in a mildly acidic range of around pH 4.5 to 5.5. Acids work by temporarily lowering that balance to loosen spent cells and accelerate renewal, improving clarity, texture and tone over time. Percentage and pH both play their part, but it all comes down to this: some acids polish, some purge – and the best blends know precisely how to work as a team.
Lactic acid
For sensitive skin in need of a glow-up
Oskia Liquid Mask Lactic Acid Micro-Peel, £70. BUY
This is what I reach for when my skin looks tired, dull or uneven. It resurfaces with a lighter touch than other acids, making it ideal for drier and more sensitive types who still want visible brightness. Oskia’s Liquid Mask Lactic Acid Micro-Peel is one I like to use overnight. Alongside 10 per cent lactic acid, it is supported by niacinamide, hyaluronic acid and pro-vitamin B5, which help to keep the barrier hydrated while the skin sheds what it no longer needs (with the lightest of tingles). Blend a few drops into a night cream and let it quietly get to work.
