Just about everything about the onion-domed Russian Orthodox church near the otherwise unassuming Swedish city of Vasteras seems odd: its close proximity to the airport, its taller-than-planned spire, and its elusive priest allegedly commended by the Kremlin’s foreign spy agency, SVR. Swedish intelligence services think so too, and have warned that Moscow is likely using it as a platform for espionage and other hostile hybrid activities potentially threatening Sweden’s national security.

Issued on: 04/07/2025 - 07:30

It is an unusually warm day for May. The birds are chirping, and the strong, sweet scent of the trees that typically blossom at this time of the year fills the spring air. Off the main road from Vasteras and towards the sparsely populated district of Hasslo, a narrow and bumpy forest path leads into a thick grove. Eventually it opens up into a peaceful, almost fairy-tale-like meadow, bathing in sunlight.

At its centre stands a structure that is as stunning as it is unexpected: a Russian Orthodox church built entirely in timber and whose tall, onion-domed spire reaches up to the tree-tops.

The Church of the Holy Mother of God of Kazan is spectacular. Red and pink tulips line the light-coloured gravel around the main church building. It is flanked by an elongated west wing, and what appear to be more private quarters to the east. The reflective and dark-tinted windows make it hard to glimpse inside.