A spicy, aromatic way with lentils that’s redolent of north African cuisine and that pairs wonderfully with white fish, and a rustic Italian pasta
L
ike most people in 1980s Britain, I didn’t really understand lentils, even though I was a professional cook in my 20s at the time. Until, that is, I had them at a restaurant in France, which braised them very carefully; thereafter I was for ever a convert. My favourites are French puy, Italian casteluccio and Spanish pardina, because they’re all refined, resilient and delicious; they’re versatile, too, and complement all sorts, from fish and meat to vegetables. The rich, Italian-style braised lentils for today’s pasta can also act as a base for all manner of other dishes, and they taste better reheated the next day – it’s the best earthy comfort food imaginable and just so happens to be seriously good for you, too. The fish dish, meanwhile, is a complete contrast, and packed with sweet and spicy flavours more reminiscent of southern Spain and north Africa.
This spiced, aromatic combination pairs beautifully with grilled fish or chicken, and it’s finished with homemade garlic-and-parsley-butter crisps. The lentils work equally well without any protein and just grilled bread and salad instead.
