Simpson’s, the dining institution founded in 1828 and renowned for its British roasts, has reopened on the Strand. For the restaurateur Jeremy King, it’s not before time.

King is behind some of London’s most celebrated restaurants including The Wolseley, The Delaunay and most recently Arlington and The Park. He first made a bid to take on Simpson’s in 2000, then again in 2008 and 2015. By the time his offer was finally accepted in 2022, Simpson’s had been closed for two years. “It’s the last of the grande dame restaurants to retain its original features,” the 71-year-old explains. “Simpson’s excited me because it’s a level of restaurant that nobody could afford to do these days if starting from scratch.”

Russian salad at Simpson’s © Dean Hearne

The original plan to reopen by Christmas 2024 was scuppered by a litany of problems. But today’s Simpson’s has been brought back to life spectacularly – for an undisclosed sum. Spanning 21,500sq ft, the building contains two restaurants (the Grand Divan, Romano’s), two bars (Simpson’s Bar, Nellie’s Tavern) and a private ballroom (the Assembly Room).

“The beautifully ornate mouldings, columns and mosaic flooring bring an Edwardian grandeur that feels instantly generous,” designer Shayne Brady says of the lobby. Design features draw on its history: the space features a series of new cubist-inspired murals depicting chess players that, alongside the chequerboard motifs throughout the building, nod to the venue’s role as the 19th-century home of British chess.