RIYADH: Sometimes it seems like the gaudiness of a restaurant’s interior is inversely proportional to the quality of the food.

That is why when I am dragged along to an eatery where the staff are dressed in ill-fitting waistcoats, where oversized chandeliers dangle precariously above diners, where faded tablecloths clash with faux vintage wallpaper, my expectations of enjoying a quality meal plummet.

While it is not a hard-and-fast rule, I often happily find that the simpler a restaurant presents itself to customers, the better the food.

These are my favorite kinds of restaurants, the ones that let the food speak for itself.

Lahori Village in Riyadh’s King Fahd district fits comfortably into this second category.