Dipping in the freezing waters of Scandinavia, Greenland and Finland was life-changing – and full of warmth thanks to saunas, hot springs and like-minded people
W
arm lights shine from the houses that dot the wintry slopes of Mount Fløyen and a cold wind blows as I stand in a swimming costume trying to talk myself into joining my friends in Bergen harbour. Stars are already appearing in the inky mid-afternoon sky.
Life-changing moments are easy to spot in retrospect, but at the time they can feel so ordinary. I didn’t know then that my wintry swim would lead to a year of adventures. I was a hair’s breadth from wimping out, but then I was in. The water was so cold it burned. I gasped for breath. The bones in my feet ached with cold as I trod water, legs frantic under the dark surface. It lasted under a minute and then we were out.
As we warmed up, hands around mugs of hot chocolate, skin zinging from the experience, more and more women arrived at the cafe, hair wet from the sea. As stars spread across the early evening sky, we chatted about swimming and how it made us feel. I’d been looking for something to pick me up ever since I had left my job on the verge of burnout. I said to my friend: “I’m going to spend a year doing this. I’ve finally found what makes me feel alive. I’m going to spend a year swimming in the Nordic countries.”
