Three trains, two buses and a ferry take our writer from Essex to Northern Ireland, to enjoy wild swims, whiskey, sandy beaches and the Giant’s Causeway
O
ystercatchers fly off as I step through stalks of storm-racked kelp for an icy dip in the winter-grey sea. Actually, the water feels unexpectedly warm, perhaps in contrast to the freezing wind. But it’s cold enough to do its job: every nerve is singing and I feel euphoric. I’m exploring the Antrim coast, which has some of the UK’s finest beaches, and proves excellent for a sustainable break – even in the stormy depths of winter.
Ballygally Castle is a great place to start and offers a Sea Dips and Hot Sips package that includes dry robes, hot-water bottles and flasks. The affordable castle, celebrating its 400th birthday this year, is perhaps Northern Ireland’s only 17th-century hotel.
The landscape outside is wild and green, but nearby Larne is well connected with a railway station and regular boats from Scotland. Getting here without flying or driving from my home in Essex involves three trains, two underground stops, two buses and a ferry (foot passengers from £38 each way, cabins from £35). It’s a surprisingly enjoyable adventure: a couple of comfortable hours by rail from London to Liverpool (advance tickets from about £20-25 each way), then a short hop to Hamilton Square and the docks. I fall asleep with a moonlit view of the Mersey and wake before sunrise over Belfast Lough, which I watch from the train window. By mid-morning, I’m on the beach with a post-swim buzz.
