The dining room of Umé, located within the Centre Pompidou-Metz. ROZA SAYFULLAEVA

For 15 years, the eastern city of Metz has hardly known where to look first. Signs point toward the city's two main tourist attractions. North of the train station lies Place Saint-Jacques, filled with market halls brimming with pâté lorrain and the majestic Saint-Etienne cathedral, built from Jaumont stone. Across the tracks, the modern Amphithéâtre district unfolds, with the Centre Pompidou-Metz museum sprawling across its center. Is it a big top? A nave? "It actually looks more like a gigantic Chinese hat," someone remarks on the plaza before stepping inside the building, which is surrounded by offices, a shopping center and glass-clad apartments.

Since 2010, the museum, housed in three vast galleries, has hosted only temporary exhibitions. The latest, "Un dimanche sans fin," is dedicated to the irreverent Italian artist Maurizio Cattelan, in conversation with works from Beaubourg [the Centre Pompidou in Paris] on loan for the occasion.

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