The story of the sandwich appears in the dictionary: In the 18th century, John Montagu, the 4th Earl of Sandwich, famously ate grilled beef between two slices of bread at his gaming table. That is how the dish bearing his name is said to have been born. While historians dispute this version – some say the snack dates back to the Middle Ages – the sandwich has long been linked to meat. The most iconic examples prove the point: jambon-beurre, hamburger or kebab. But times have changed, and gastronomy in France is gradually becoming more plant-based – and so are sandwiches. Tofu, eggs and breaded vegetables have made their way onto bread. Here is a selection of five Paris addresses where you can enjoy a greener take on the classic sandwich.
At Plan D, breaded squash and smoky sauce
At Plan D, they call their sandwiches "dwichs." All are vegan and designed in monochrome colors – red, yellow, green and so on. This autumn, the "brown" version features portobello mushrooms prepared like roast chicken with a pepper sauce. There's also the "orange" dwich, with breaded butternut squash (€10), which we chose. The service was a bit slow, but it was worth the wait. Made with a generous organic loaf from Dupain bakery – somewhere between a ciabatta and a focaccia – with carrots (both grated and roasted with thyme), the sandwich offers an intriguing play of textures. It is at once crispy, crunchy and soft. The breaded squash and homemade ras el-hanout mayonnaise add indulgence, while the smoky homemade sauce brings real depth. You can eat at the few seats at the counter or at one of two tables outside, but we suggest taking your sandwich a few dozen meters away to the edge of Canal Saint-Martin – weather permitting.
