Photographer Owen Harvey explores belonging and identity in his work, and as the pearlies reach a major milestone, he decided to capture their traditions and discuss their future
T
he first time I saw a pearly, I was sat on a fairly empty midday Northern Line train. As it screeched to a standstill and the doors opened, an elderly gentleman appeared, head to toe in shimmering buttons that were sewn into his black suit. I was fascinated by this man and his bold clothing choice, and I was intrigued to find out more about what this outfit represented.
I later learned he was a member of the pearly kings and queens.
At the heart of the pearly kings and queens tradition stands Henry Croft. Raised in a Victorian orphanage in Somers Town, Henry became a road sweeper and rat catcher. He grew close to the market traders known for their community pride, rich cockney slang, and outfits, trimmed with mother-of-pearl buttons. Inspired by their fashion and their spirit of mutual aid, Henry created a full suit elaborately decorated with pearl buttons, to draw attention while raising money for the orphanage where he grew up.
