‘The silence allows me to hear every flurry of falling snow’: walking in Switzerland’s hidden valley

Laced with hiking trails, the remote valley of Lower Engadine is the perfect place to reconnect with nature

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n the muffled silence all I can hear is the crunch and squeak of snow underfoot. The white path ahead of me meanders skyward through forests of larch and pine, their boughs glittering with snow. When I look back, I can see for miles – an icily beautiful panorama of crags and peaks.

I’m in the Lower Engadine, in remote south-east Switzerland, thanks to a tip shared by my Swiss friend Kaspar, when I was pondering a winter walking holiday away from the crowds. Over two weeks I’ll be exploring this fairytale landscape alone, following well-marked trails.

The Lower Engadine contains few ski slopes, even fewer tourists and Switzerland’s only national park, a fiercely protected 170 sq km of wilderness now inhabited by 36 species of mammal and more than 100 species of bird, including bearded vultures, eagles, wolves, ibex, mountain hares and marmots.