Last week, a helicopter appeared over the green, folded hills of Ukhrul in India's north-eastern state of Manipur.
By the time it touched down on a makeshift helipad outside Somdal village, the crowd had already begun to sing. When the door opened, the crowd surged towards a frail man in dark glasses and a black suit. Quickly, they draped him in a traditional shawl.
After more than half a century, Thuingaleng Muivah, India's oldest rebel, had come home.
Now 91, Mr Muivah is the general secretary of the National Socialist Council of Nagalim (Isak-Muivah), or NSCN (I-M), the most powerful of the Naga insurgent factions that once fought the Indian state in one of Asia's longest-running rebellions - though today the organisation is often regarded as a shadow of its former self.
His supporters see him as the keeper of a demand India has never recognised - a separate state for Naga people. His critics remember something else: a movement accused of targeted killings and running a parallel government in Nagaland through "taxes" many call extortion - allegations the NSCN (I-M) denies.






