It’s squash season and my favourite time of the year, not least for all the curries and other comfort food of autumn. Today’s Rajasthani stir-fry is one I cook often, and the combination of ginger, chilli and jaggery lends it a lovely balance of flavour. The biryani, meanwhile, is packed with whole spices, basmati and ghee, which give so much more flavour to the layers of rice and vegetables.Mushroom and squash biryaniNational curry week starts on October 6, so what better way to mark the occasion than with a rich, warming, all-in-one-pot biryani? If you like, make the vegetable curry element in advance and layer everything on the day you want to serve.Prep 20 minCook 2 hrServes 4For the squash and mushroom gravy4 tbsp ghee, or butter

1 tsp cumin seeds

2 dried bay leaves

4 cloves

450g white onions, peeled and thinly sliced3 green bird’s eye chillies, slit open lengthways5cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and cut into matchsticks2 tbsp tomato puree