Fettucine with a smooth ’nduja and mascarpone sauce, and indulgent pappardelle with creamy walnuts and egg

M

y compass for what we cook at our restaurants is primarily governed by the weather, because food tastes better when it matches how your body feels. In the UK, with its distinct seasons, that weather influences mood, so pairing the right dish with the climate and season feels deeply nourishing, and goes far beyond mere sustenance. To me, pasta is the most versatile of food types and lends itself perfectly to such seasonal cooking: a walk through damp woodland, say, often makes me crave wild mushrooms, sauteed with garlic and herbs, then tossed with fettuccine, while, as the days shorten and the air cools, a slow-cooked game ragu with penne always hits the spot, as does a warming blast of ’nduja in a creamy sauce. And when indulgence calls, a rich walnut, egg and parmesan sauce is wickedly satisfying.

You need to be hungry for this one, and I recommend eating it after you’ve done some form of exercise, so you feel as if you’ve earned it. It’s supremely indulgent and naughty, but boy oh boy is it good. The sauce also works with fresh stracci, or dried penne and rigatoni.

Prep 10 min