New system to get durians to northern China faster reminds of how lychees were rushed to Emperor Xuanzong’s favourite consort at great cost

Native to Southeast Asia, durian is a highly divisive fruit. Some people love it, while others cannot stand being in the same room with one.

A lot of this comes down to biology and culture.

The fruit’s (in)famous smell comes from sulphur compounds. Genetic variations in olfactory receptors mean some people detect more of the sweet, custardy notes, while others are overwhelmed by the strong stench of week-old garbage.

But for those encountering it for the first time, the smell can be akin to rotten food.