Mystery, history, unbeatable views and delicious local produce await in this idyllic corner of south-west England, which can be explored by foot, ferry, steam train and bus
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utside the train window, there’s a flickering reel of flowering fruit trees, lambs and swans nesting on the marshy levels. Following the Exe estuary towards Dawlish, where the railway runs along the beach, flocks of waders are gathering on the sandbanks, backed by boats and glinting water.
I’m heading for the Dart valley and the English Riviera, AKA Torbay, to explore by foot and ferry, river boat, bus and steam railway. The area promises wine, walking, seafood and an eclectic history from prehistoric cave-dwellers to Agatha Christie. It’s easy to assume a Devon holiday must involve driving, but it can be even better without. On previous trips, I’ve stayed in Exeter and toured by train, or based myself in Torquay to walk the coast path and take the boat to Brixham. This time, I’m testing the limits of what can comfortably be done without a car by staying in an old farmhouse in the countryside, half a mile from the nearest bus stop.
Bus 125 runs every couple of hours from Paignton, and the road from Four Cross Lanes bus stop to Sandridge Barton winery is laced with stitchwort and pink campion, growing under hedges wreathed in honeysuckle. Robins are singing in the apple trees and skylarks over the fields. Hard to believe I was in rainy Essex this morning and am now in a sunny Devon vineyard, ready for the midday tour. A whiff of wood smoke from the fire in the tasting cabin mixes with soft bubbles from the Sharpham sparkling wine, made on site and tasting of oak and tart apple crumble. The last taster, a young, fruity red, comes with Sharpham cheeses and local chilli jam.
