There are two kinds of people. There are those who see a rental cottage on a private island with its own boat and think “wow” — and then there is my wife. “No way,” she says. “I like boats — I just don’t want to be in one when you’re driving.”
Which is why, weeks later, I am baffled to find ourselves two-thirds of the way along the Ardnamurchan peninsula at Laga Bay — the launch spot for the crossing to the Isle of Carna where our cottage (and boat) await.
The good news before our descent to Laga Bay is that no one is worrying about the boat on Carna any more. The bad news is that’s because all any of us can think about is the alarmingly steep drive down to the water. “This can’t be right,” says one of the kids, peeping over the dashboard like he’s at the top of the Big One in Blackpool. “I’m getting out,” says my wife. “It’ll be fine,” I say, while simultaneously wishing I could join her.
Turns out it’s a doddle — but as private island arrivals go, it’s not exactly Richard Branson saying “Welcome to Necker”. It’s more like, “Toughen up, townie — west coast rules now.” Unloading the car, I try hard not to meet my wife’s gaze.
We are greeted by the friendly Carna caretaker, Andy Jackson, who helps lug our bags and food boxes across the wobbly pontoon to his boat. He ferries us 20 minutes across Loch Sunart to Carna. A seal pops up beside the prow; terns dance in our slipstream; and Highland summits glower above the water in all directions.








