PARIS: Elie Saab, the Lebanese designer long favored on the red carpet, returned to familiar territory on Wednesday, with fall haute couture — and did so unapologetically.

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In Paris, fashion insiders gathered among marble columns as models descended a gilded stone staircase to the strains of harpsichord music, setting the tone for a collection steeped in historical romance.

Saab leaned into his signature codes: sumptuous velvets, gowns gathered at the back, and pearl and jewel-adorned chokers. Floral appliques — another hallmark — blossomed, anchoring the collection in the femininity that has defined the house for decades.

This was a particularly thoughtful collection, evoking romantic silhouettes from the turn of the 19th century in Europe. The soft draping and historical references gave the show a sense of emotional depth beyond its surface opulence.